I
spent Saturday afternoon exploring Hobart: a waterfront city, right
on the Derwent River, with the central point being the docks. I ate
chips on one of the piers, and admired the views: the whole city is
situated within minutes of both mountains and beaches.
I
also wandered along Salamanca Place, which is lined with old stone
buildings, mainly now restaurants and bars. Hobart seems quite a
sleepy city, especially after the busy-ness of Melbourne, but a cute
one, too.
Saturday
also happened to be Mel's birthday, so her lovely friends Brad
and Matt took us out to
dinner at a wonderful Indian restaurant in North Hobart, which served
the best naan bread I have ever tasted.
Sunday
was the third and final ODI, which meant a ride over the Trans-Tasman
Bridge to the other side of the city, and more amazing views. The
Bellerive Oval, where the matches this week have taken place, must
surely be a candidate for Most Beautiful Cricket Ground In The World.
It's nestled among suburbia, with a lovely beach just seconds away –
and seriously, the views have to be seen to be believed.
The
match itself was a tense affair: England looked a dead cert to retain
the Ashes, with the Australians staging a spectacular fightback in
the final 10 overs. I could barely watch (very unprofessional of me)
– you can read about how tense it was in my
piece for AOC.
Once
that particular drama was over, Mel, Eliza and I went to Muir's for
dinner, to eat some authentic Tassie seafood, including squid and
scallops. Hobart is famous for its seafood, being right on the water,
and it did not disappoint. In fact, the food I have had in Tasmania
has been the best I have eaten anywhere in Australia (just starting
to worry about getting on the scales when I get home!)
Monday
was a very exciting day, as Brad and Matt were taking Mel
cider-tasting in the Huan Valley, and I was invited along. This meant
that I could see a little bit more of Tassie, and the drive (about a
3 hour round trip around the valley) threw up even more views that
took your breath away.
With
the stretches of water and the mountains, it reminded me a bit of
Scotland – aside from the fact that it was a beautiful sunny day,
over 30 degrees, and the likelihood is that the mountains near
Stirling are currently covered in snow.
The
highlight of the day was undoubtedly the cider tasting; anyone who
knows me knows that I am a big cider fan. Apparently cider is just
getting big here in Tasmania, because they have had problems in
recent years exporting their apples. So, we visited two apple
orchards, both of which have just opened up recently to the public,
and I ended up trying about 10 different types of cider, including
cherry, which was a new one on me. It was delicious, although the one
that was 8% alcohol was possibly a little bit strong for my tastes!
Other
highlights included: the scallop pie we ate for lunch; and stopping
at another one of those lovely Australian beaches which seem to
stretch for miles, where the sea is refreshingly cool, rather than
freezing cold. Oh, and of course Mel's adventure down a cliff to
rescue her sandals...she did (eventually) make it back up safely!
In the evening, Brad and Matt had very generously invited me over to their place for an authentic Australian “barbie”, about which I was very excited. It turns out that all the stories about Australians doing barbecues a MILLION times better than Brits are 100% true. First of all, everything was perfectly cooked. Secondly, we could eat outside, even as it got darker, because of the lovely weather. Thirdly, everything was cooked on a Real Barbecue, rather than one of those disposable ones. I even had my first taste of kangaroo meat (which is actually quite common over here, and can be bought in any supermarket). Despite my initial objections, based on the cuteness of kangaroos, it's pretty delicious.
A
couple of the BBC guys, Phil and Katie,
who have been over here reporting on the women's series, also came
along; and even more cider was consumed.
I
also slightly fell in love with one of Brad and Matt's two border
collies, Coco, who is brown and white and adorable.
All
in all, a perfect Australia Day Holiday, one of the best days of my
trip so far. Thanks so much, guys.
Tuesday
was ridiculously hot – it must have been 40 degrees, and made worse
by the fact that a hot wind was blowing, the like of which I have
never experienced before. It was like being blown along a London
street in the winter, but without the refreshing cool bit: more like
a hairdryer constantly in your face. Horrible. The heat definitely
seems to be following me around out here (not that I mind, most of
the time!)
I
escaped the heat by catching the ferry across to MONA (the Museum of
New Art), which everyone said was the Thing To Do while in Hobart. It
is an incredibly bizarre place. Owned by some multi-millionaire who
buys up old art and also commissions new stuff specifically for MONA,
it's on an island a 30-minute ferry ride away. This meant I could
take some photographs to try and give some indication of just how
beautiful Hobart and its surroundings really are:
MONA
is unlike any other art gallery I've ever been to, and probably
unlike any other art gallery in the world. For one, none of the
exhibits are labelled, which means that without your audio guide you
would have no idea what they were or what the “meaning” behind
them was (but I guess that might be the point). And instead of
dividing the art neatly into categories in separate rooms, everything
is intermingled: so one minute you'll be looking at a lump of twisted
metal, and the next minute there will be some ancient Aboriginal
artwork, or an Egyptian mummy.
Some
of the exhibits include: a room full of nothing but blinking light
bulbs; a room full of old television screens; and a machine which is
sort of like a model of the human digestive system, with various
clear containers connected by wires, in which you can see “food”
going round and round, and if you hang around long enough, watch it
do a “poo”. There is also a new “death gallery”, with nothing
in it but a hangman's noose in the middle. And most of the time, you
are wandering around in near-darkness. Emerging at the top and out
again into the heat was like emerging from some sort of nightmare
horror movie. I'm glad I went though.
Tuesday
night was fun. I was invited out by Mel to join some other local
journalists: apparently Jesse
Hogan lost a bet relating to the Big Bash, and promised Alex
Johnston dinner, and the rest of us were beneficiaries. We went
to this AMAZING Chinese dumpling place in Sandy Bay, with, in Alex's
words, “better chicken than KFC” (it's true!) Then on into the
city, to a bar in Salamanca Place, with the night ending in some
questionable dance moves as classic rock tunes were played (hi
Jesse!) ;-)
Yesterday
was, perhaps, the best day I'm likely to experience as an English
cricket journalist. As you'll no doubt be aware, England won the T20
game by 9 wickets, and in some style, with Charlotte Edwards making
92*. With that victory, England
have retained the Ashes, for only the third time ever on
Australian soil.
It
was amazing to see the players running onto the pitch, and the
attention lavished on them after the match ended: the guys from Sky
and the BBC were all crowded around, at last giving the players some
of the credit they deserve for the way they have played these last
few weeks. Meanwhile I sat up in the press box frantically typing, as
I tried to take it all in.
I
still cannot believe that I was lucky enough to be here, 10,000 miles
away from home, to see it. Any minute now I'm going to wake up and
find out that this whole incredible trip has been a dream.
I
left Hobart this morning feeling a bit sad that I spent so little
time in Tasmania. I don't even feel like I got to know the city
properly, let alone the island itself. Hopefully I will return at
some stage. I was there long enough to learn this much, though:
Tasmania is indescribably beautiful.
No comments:
Post a Comment